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Unregistered Hybrid

(Catasetum Portagee Star 'Brian Lawson's Sunrise' HCC/AOS x Catasetum lucis 'Dana's Bird of Paradise' AM/AOS)

 

Flower quality in Portagee Star is surprisingly nice, with just three species in its background: pileatum, expansum and tenebrosum.  The shape is full, the lip is flat and the color is an attractive yellow with a bit of red.  What makes Catasetum lucis remarkable is its upright 4' long inflorescence that carries many long-lived green flowers with white lips.  Earlier crosses in this style of breeding have been excellent.  We are expecting flower color to range between yellow with a red blush to pure white.  These will have high flower count, strong stems and flower longevity of 3-4 weeks, a nice trait passed on by lucis to its offspring. These will surprise you with their flower quality! (Description and photos courtesy of Fred Clarke, Sunset Valley Orchids)

 

Photo right: Catasetum Portagee Star 'Brian Lawson's Sunrise' HCC/AOS

Photo Left: Catasetum lucis 'Dana's Bird of Paradisel'  AM/AOS

 

This is an as of yet registered hybrid. SVO item 7315

 

Parentage:

 

(Catasetum Portagee Star 'Brian Lawson's Sunrise' HCC/AOS   x  Catasetum lucis 'Dana's Bird of Paradise' AM/AOS)

 

 

 

 

Brief Grow Blog and Pictures

 
 

February 2019

Acquired from Sunset Valley Orchids.  This two-year-old seedling has 2 old growth bulbs (one approximately an inch tall and last year's growth is 7-inches tall) . It is currently situated in a 3-inch pot in moss with styrofoam peanuts filling the bottom 1/3 of the pot surrounded by abundant roots.  Old roots do not contribute to the new growth.

 

As the orchid is still considered dormant and the last bulb is supplying nutrients and water for the new growth, nothing is required  except allowing to be exposed in indirect sunlight in a relatively humid environment.  On occasion, to prevent the last year's bulb from shriveling, I will mist the orchid and that water will run down and add moisture to the area immediately surrounding the base of the bulb.  Keeping the entire orchid in a high humidity environment should also preventi last year's bulb from shriveling.

 

I will be watching for the new growth to extend to about an inch in length and new roots from its base.  Once the roots are about 2 inches in length and the new growth has developed and spreading of tiny leaves, I will consider the next step of potting up in fresh slightly damp moss removing the old styrofoam.The moss will be kept barely damp with a small amount of water as needed.  The terrarium and its high humidity is no longer required as the new roots have started taking in water.  It will be positioned in the mini-greenhouse with bright light and high humidity along with warm temperatures during th day and cooling off at night. As the new growth increases in size, watering will also be increased along with the adding of fertilizer.

 

10 February

Based on advice from this article, I fought off the hesitation to do this, but Fred Clarke said it is fine in a dry climate to water dormant bulbs.  SO I did, and lucky to pick a partly coudy day where they were drenched and set in the mini-greenhouse to dry in the sun on the same day before sunset.  ( http://herebutnot.com/care-growing-catasetinae-dry-climates/ )

 

A few days after I removed the orchid from the pot to speed up the drying of the root mass.

 

When possible, I had it sitting  in the mini-greenhouse getting a few hours of diluted sunlight.  The new growths continue to get taller, almost reaching a length of 1.5 inches.  This item may be re-potted beginning of March.

 

24 February

Using a soft-bristle toothbrush, in gentle strokes in an up and down motion I attempt to brush off the old scruff.  I am not concerned cleaning all the scruff off in one brushing, but oer time.  The only reason for this is that the bulb being green does perform photosynthesis and produces food from the stored water to feed the new growth.

 

This particular orchid is showing an obvious new growth from the base of last year's bulb.  During the day it is placed in my mini-greenhouse so it is exposed to the sun in indirect, but strong light.  At night it is placed under a grow lamp.  I mist the top of the moss sparingly so that it adds to humidity in the greenhouse.

 

 

 

March 2019

This 7-inch bulb from last year (a sign this could be a rather large plant when in full growth stage) is showing signs of 2 new growths on opposite sides.  It is not just the leaf spread, but the potential for a 4-foot spike that makes this Catasetum huge.  Remember - 2 new growths.....

 

 

 

 

April 2019  (Date of image is 20190401)

 

Re-potted into it's grow season pot.  Removed the styrofoam peanuts from the old root-ball but this year I left a majority of the previous roots undisturbed.  Arranged the old root mass to be nested in fresh damp moss using the old surface of moss as a guide to determine the position so that this year's new growth is centered as much as possible and level if not just above the level of new moss - some sinking / settling might occur and to prevent this the moss below the old root-mass is compressed.  One thing I wanted to avoid is sinking the bulb too low in the moss.

 

This is a prime example of why reading descripions is very important.  I have dubbed this Catastum, 'the monster' due to its tendency to be a space hog  with its leaf spread and tall, almost 4foot spike.  What makes this one even bigger is that their are two growths forming (both visible in image left).  Lesson learned, will compensate when required with regards to space.

 

I carefully add a few drops of water from a turkey baster on the outer edge of the pot to keep the moss damp.  By the end of April I suspect the spikes be more obvious and the new growth be ready for watering with a diluted fertilizer.  Currently, this orchid is in the second row from the front getting ambient light until the afternoon, bright light in the afternoon with some more direct but diffused light mid-afternoon to sunset.

 

(Mental note:  remaining pictures for this grow blog will be situated with the growth in the same position so as to avoid confusion and attempt to be consistent.)

 

 

 

 

May 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

Comparing the April picture and the current May image, you can get an idea just how fast these grow.

I increased the watering amount and frequency and used a diluted fertilizer once a week.  As for watering,  I would drench the moss, almost drowning it, and then tilt the pot so excess water drain out to a leel below the drainage holes.  The moss woul then wick the water up to the top keeping everything evenly moist.

I had to adjust the shelves in 2 of the mini-greenhouses so that the Catasetums get optimum light.  This was expected.  Brighter light means better blooms.  I could tell there was sufficient light by a shadow from my hand.  Catasetums are heat tolerant, so if it was above 80-degrees, in the greenhouse it be warmer, but also more humid.  If it was above 90-degrees, I just keep the flaps open so the heated air could escape easily.

 

Note for next year - rotate more frequently the Catasetums so the new growth reaches up and not to the side.  Vertical Catasetums take less space than horizontal Catasetums.

 

 

 

 

June 2019

Look, Catasetums can grow vertical!

 

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

Catasetums are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir.  2 spikes formed almost immediately (see images above).

Into June, watering was just about everyday and feeding was still once a week.

This orfchid has a second new growth on the opposit side but for weeks has remained just a popped eye, so I am not sure if it will develop any further.  This Catasetum is a little over a foot tall, and I know that the spike will come from the top of the new growth.  Space is not abundant for vertical growths so once the spike starts to develop I will keep an eye on it and make decisions regarding if it remain, or how long it safely be kept in the mini-greenhouse.  The spike is expected to be rigid and can reach a length of 2 feet aith numerous blooms.   So I wait....

 

 

 

July 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.  Exposure (time of) direct light is on the increase as the solstice has passed and the sun slowly gets lower in the horizon.  This also means heat is on the increase in the mini-greenhouse as well.

 

Catasetums are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir. 

 

With the advent of July, watering with very diluted fertilizer is just about every other day and during any heatwave more as needed.

 

 

 

 

August 2019

I jokingly refer to this yet to be named hybrid as my "little monster".  This year's new bulb growth is about 66 inches in length almost matching last year's growth.  The horizontal spread is about 20 inches from leaf tip to tip and the total height is approximately 2 feet tall (not counting the 8-inch tall pot).  I suspect by the middle of August, I be able to spot the spike coming from the side of the bulb.

 

The spike alone will probably be another 2 feet tall based on pictures of the poollen parent Catasetum lucis   in bloom.  (click here for an example of Ctsm. lucis and Carlos of Sunset Valley Orchids).  Click any of the images below and see if you can find it.

 

 

 

 

Unregistered Hybrid

(Catasetum Portagee Star 'Brian Lawson's Sunrise' HCC/AOS x Catasetum lucis 'Dana's Bird of Paradisel'  AM/AOS)

 

  Flowering by Week 1 to 52
AVE. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
 
2019 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
2020 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

 

 

I possess this orchid new growth spotted leaflets and roots growth stage spike bloom dormancy

 

 

 

 

 

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