( Cyc. Cryminy 'Killer' x Cyc. Richard Brandon 'SVO II' AM/AOS )
Cyc. Cryminy (Richard Brandon x Cyc. Kevin Clarke) ‘Killer’ has color never before seen in a Cycnoches. The base color is bronze/yellow, with bold burgundy spots that coalesce into large solid patches, set off by a contrasting white lip. Just remarkable! Richard Brandon (warscewiczii x Jean E. Monnier) produces robust-growing plants that are easy to bloom, with high-quality well-shaped flowers. This outstanding grex is becoming my go-to parent for making modern Cycnoches hybrids. What will this cross deliver? I expect novel flower color combinations in gold and bronze, deeply spotted with burgundy. Plants should produce 15-20 flowers per inflorescence. As a bonus, these will be easy to grow and flower. The reciprocal cross is available as SVO 8172, providing a rare opportunity to see how capsule and pollen parents differ in their contribution to the offspring. (Description and Photos: Fred Clarke of Sunset Valley Orchids) (SVO 7691)
2021 Grow Blog: This will be my first year growing this orchid
The reciprocal cross was available as SVO 8172. NoID hybrid ( Cyc. Richard Brandon 'SVO II' AM/AOS x Cyc. Cryminy 'Killer' )
Material below this point is "dumped" here and will be added to the main presentation.
CULTURE CARE (General and Basic)
By the end of December the leaves should have by now turned brittle yellow and start off fall off the bulb. The last "light" watering was at the beginning of the month. The orchid is ready to enjoy a month or two off to rest before repeating the life-cycle come February with new growth.
The dormant bulb has only one requirement at this time and that is protection from extreme cold temperatures.
Care of he bulb at this time is followed by a few different ways with a focus on boosting humidity around the roots but following the "no-water" rule. I remove the bulb from the clay pellets (very easily done) shake the roots clean and free of debris, and place the orchid ad tag back in he pot bare-root.
If the outside temperature be above 55-degrees and mostly sunny skies, I will stage my dormant bulbs outside so they get some inspirational sunlight.
New Growth (Could be new growth or spike?)
I have no actual experience with this orchid so I am learning as I grow.
Spike: Starts growing vertical from the base, then looks like very young asparagus with the buds in a tight cluster at the tip. For more information, see the "In Spike" section below.
New Growth: Typically darker then the spike growth and follows a vertical pattern but will lean heavily towards the light source if allowed. The young leaves replace a tight cluster of buds at the tip. To counter this lean I rotate the pot so growth is as close to vertical as possible.
That First Watering
My orchid is almost bare root in the pot and if you are familiar with SVO Catasetinaes in the 3-inch pot, they are root-bound in moss snared around styrofoam peanuts. When the new growth and the root mass starts to scream "water me", I will oblige. It will get a nice soak in water and at the same time as much the old moss be removed, roots trimmed if need be and then allowed to sit bare root overnight. Remember the first waterings should be just enough to moisten the roots (no fertilizer) but entice the roots to keep growing in length. After allowing a good drying, finish poting it. Couple days later, second watering. Eventually the amount and frequency of watering can be reached that is required in your area.
By the end of June, watering should be full strength and every other watering can include fertilizer or fertilize these as you would other orchids.
Sunlight and Air Movement
It is my understanding that Catasetinaes appreciate and can tolerate bright light conditions, just not sure how this affects blooming when these orchids bloom in both Vanda-light and Phal.-light conditions.
Air movement is vital if growing near full unblocked sun as prolonged exposure without the disturbance of leaves "flutering" in a breeze, the very thin leaves can burn.
As they develop they are susceptible to following the light.
I have no experience growing this orchid so this is a learning experience.
My goal is a successful blooming after protecting the spike so the buds can mature and open.
The spike I am guessing will start verical, slowly bend to horizontal and clear the edge of the pot with enough space so buds are not in contact with the outside of the pot as the spike cascades down.
First bloom, first spike should yield 5 to 7 blooms.
The next year, 9 to 7 blooms and so on.
I expect novel flower color combinations in gold and bronze, deeply spotted with burgundy. Plants should produce 15-20 flowers per inflorescence. As a bonus, these will be easy to grow and flower. - Fred Clarke of Sunset Valley Orchids
The reciprocal cross was available as SVO 8172, (It will be my first year growing this orchid as well and once well passed dormancy and new growth is ocurrig I will make sure these two orchids are side by side in my growing area.) providing a rare opportunity to see how capsule and pollen parents differ in their contribution to the offspring.
Final edit and proofread is still required
In the "sand box" area, material has been removed from content that is duplicated, misleading and information about sex of bloom and possible ways to "force" female flowers as this only be of interest to someone with intention to hybridize in the future. but I included the original links so anyone can follow these topics.
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