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Unregistered Hybrid

 

(Catasetum John C. Burchett 'Ursa Major' FCC/AOS x Fredclarkeara Dark There After 'SVO Winters Night' FCC/AOS)

 

This is a very special pairing, as the Catasetum held the capsule in this hybrid, an unusual occurrence in Fredclarkeara breeding. John C. Burchett (Ctsm. João Stivalli x Ctsm. Susan Fuchs) is among the most impressive of the modern pileatum-based Catasetum hybrids, with unusually rich burgundy color and huge, flat, nearly-black lips. The breeding of Dark There After is (Fdk. After Dark x Ctsm. Donna Wise), and the cross was quite successful, with 7 AOS awards. The large, full-shaped flowers are a rich deep burgundy color. I have not yet seen a Fdk. cross bloom with a Catasetum as the capsule parent, and I must confess that I 'm really looking forward to seeing these. (This is as of yet an unregistered (unnamed) hybrid).

 

Left Photo:  Catasetum John C. Burchett 'Ursa Major' FCC/AOS

Right Photo:  Fredclarkeara Dark There After 'SVO Winters Night' FCC/AOS

Description and photos courtesy of Fred Clarke, Sunset Valley Orchids

 

As this is as of yet an unregistered (Unnamed) Fredclarkeara hydrid and details are slim as of the time of this drafting, to understand this particular orchid, one must research both parents.  I covered both of these parents in detail just follow the appropriate link(s).  Otherwise information below is specific to this unnamed hybrid.  Looking forward to this maybe blooming for the first time in May of 2019.

 

Parentage 

 

Catasetum John C. Burchett 'Ursa Major' FCC/AOS

 

Catasetum John C. Burchett 'Ursa Major' FCC/AOS

 

Fredclarkeara Dark There After 'SVO Winters Night' FCC/AOS

 

Fredclarkeara Dark There After 'SVO Winters Night' FCC/AOS

 

 

Sources

 

Sunset Valley Orchids Item No. "SVO 7301"

 

Brief Grow Blog and Pictures

 

 
 

February 2019

Acquired from Sunset Valley Orchids.  It is currently situated in a 3-inch pot in moss with styrofoam peanuts filling the bottom 1/3 of the pot surrounded by abundant roots.  Old roots do not contribute to the new growth.

 

As the orchid is still considered dormant and the last bulb is supplying nutrients and water for the new growth, nothing is required  except allowing to be exposed in indirect sunlight in a relatively humid environment.  On occasion, to prevent the last year's bulb from shriveling, I will mist the orchid and that water will run down and add moisture to the area immediately surrounding the base of the bulb.  Keeping the entire orchid in a high humidity environment should also preveni last year's bulb from shriveling.

 

I will be watching for the new growth to extend to about an inch in length and new roots from its base.  Once the roots are about 2 inches in length and the new growth has developed and spreading of tiny leaves, I will consider the next step of potting up in fresh slightly damp moss removing the old styrofoam.The moss will be kept barely damp with a small amount of water as needed.  The terrarium and its high humidity is no longer required as the new roots have started taking in water.  It will be positioned in the mini-greenhouse with bright light and high humidity along with warm temperatures during the day and cooling off at night. As the new growth increases in size, watering will also be increased along with the adding of fertilizer.

 

10 February

Based on advice from this article, I fought off the hesitation to do this, but Fred Clarke said it is fine in a dry climate to water dormant bulbs.  SO I did, and lucky to pick a partly coudy day where they were drenched and set in the mini-greenhouse to dry in the sun on the same day before sunset.  ( http://herebutnot.com/care-growing-catasetinae-dry-climates/ )

 

 

March 2019

On last year's bulb, at ring 2, 3 and 4 (2 and 4 on the same side) are the swellings of possible spikes.  (See "ring" discussion here, I count up from the bottom.) Looking forward to seeing all three of these spikes develop and each having perhaps 6 or more blooms each.  Hopefully each spike's buds be staggered prolonging the show perhaps in May (along with new growth(s).

 

 

 

April 2019  (Date of image is 20190401)

Re-potted into it's grow season pot.  Removed the styrofoam peanuts from the old root-ball but this year I left a majority of the previous roots undisturbed.  Arranged the old root mass to be nested in fresh damp moss using the old surface of moss as a guide to determine the position so that this year's new growth is centered as much as possible and level if not just above the level of new moss - some sinking / settling might occur and to prevent this the moss below the old root-mass is compressed.  One thing I wanted to avoid is sinking the bulb too low in the moss.

Everybody has at least one odd-ball orchid that just does it's own thing.  This is my enigma for 2019.  On the Left, seems to be a keiki (baby orchid).  Might be at least 3 roots dropping from the base, just as new growth would do, but lower on the old growth bulb.  On the right side are two similar swellings.  I will just let it do it's thing an reac accordingly.

I carefully add a few drops of water from a turkey baster on the outer edge of the pot to keep the moss damp.  By the end of April I suspect the spikes be more obvious and the new growth be ready for watering with a diluted fertilizer.  Currently, this orchid is in the second row from the front getting ambient light until the afternoon, bright light in the afternoon with some more direct but diffused light mid-afternoon to sunset.

 

 

 

 

1 May 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

Comparing the April picture and the current May image, you can get an idea just how fast these grow.

I increased the watering amount and frequency and used a diluted fertilizer once a week.  As for watering,  I would drench the moss, almost drowning it, and then tilt the pot so excess water drain out to a level below the drainage holes.  The moss would then wick the water up to the top keeping everything evenly moist.

I had to adjust the shelves in 2 of the mini-greenhouses so that the Fredclarkera get optimum light.  This was expected.  Brighter light means better blooms.  I could tell there was sufficient light by a shadow from my hand.  Fredclarkera are heat tolerant, so if it was above 80-degrees, in the greenhouse it be warmer, but also more humid.  If it was above 90-degrees, I just keep the flaps open so the heated air could escape easily.

 

Note for next year - rotate more frequently the Fredclarkera so the new growth reaches up and not to the side.  Vertical Fredclarkera take less space than horizontal Fredclarkera.

 

 

 

1 June 2019

This particular Fredclarkera has a quirk that has been outlined above - an odd keiki.  This keiki developed about an inch above the moss.  The roots from the keiki are now just starting to come into contact with the moist moss.  Until that happens, I have been spraying the root cluster a few times a day, more when I remember, trying to keep them moist and get water instead of draining the original bulb.  Once the roots start to burrow into the moss, the orchid will start having access to a constant suplly of moisture and be fine.  It may even host a spike with blooms.  When this one reaches dormancy I will cut it off as a division.

 

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

Fredclarkeras are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir.  2 spikes formed almost immediately (see images above).

Into June, watering was just about everyday and feeding was still once a week.

 

 

July 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.  Exposure (time of) direct light is on the increase as the solstice has passed and the sun slowly gets lower in the horizon.  This also means heat is on the increase in the mini-greenhouse as well.

 

Fredclarkera are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir. 

 

With the advent of July, watering with very diluted fertilizer is just about every other day and during any heatwave more as needed.

 

August 2019

This is the Fredclarkeara that developed a Keiki on the side that was well above the medium and with the other normal growth on the opposite side, there was no way to sink the old bublb into the moss. I do know this, that Keiki is the first volunteer for a division.

 

I mist the root mass a couple times a day with a hand sprayer to keep the roots moist and speed up growth into the medium below.  Seems a few roots have done just that and once the growth figures that a few roots found "gold", or a reliable water source, they all follow soon.  I been tossing the idea around about drapping some loose wet moss onto the root ball, but as much as this might be beneficial, it could also have it's drawbacks.  The biggest drawback being unintentionally encouraging the roots to spread out under the loose moss and never actually dive into the medium below.  Click on the image below for a much better view of the root ball.  If you floow the angle of the roots up to a fold of triangle-shaped "skin", I suspect that be where a spike would appear, if this growth was to spike - fingers crossed.

 

Looking back at the series of pictures focus on the old growth bulb, it has shrunk some over time as the Keiki relied on it for it's water source.  This most likely stunted the other growth.  I will as mentioned above during the day drape some wet moss on the exposed root mass as we approach the dog days of summer in August.  Before sunset, I will remove the drapping.

 

Meanwhile, like all the other Catasetinaes,  I swamp the pot with lots of water and late afternoon I drain them, but they still retain water overnight.  The goal, spike if you are going to but also of concern is the swelling of the bulb for next year's growth.  Any future Keikis from now on once the roots are about an inch in length, I will remove and pot separately.   Come dormancy time I will remove the Keiki and after two years it becomes a item for trade.

 

 

 

 

 

 

September 2019

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unregistered Hybrid

(Catasetum John C. Burchett 'Ursa Major' FCC/AOS x Fredclarkeara Dark There After 'SVO Winters Night' FCC/AOS)

 

  Flowering by Week 1 to 52
AVE. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
 
2019 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
2020 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

 

 

I possess this orchid new growth spotted leaflets and roots growth stage spike bloom dormancy

 

 

 

http://www.orchidboard.com/community/catasetum-and-stanhopea-alliance/89499-fredclarkeara-dark-svo-black-pearl-stage-care-4.html

http://nv-os.org/index.php/the-potting-bench/culture-information/item/378-catasetinae-general-observations-and-discussions

 

 

 

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