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(Fdk. After Hours 'Dark Thirty' x Fdk. Enter Light 'SVO Dark Beauty' FCC/AOS)

Here is a hybrid with highly awarded parents. Both parents of this After Hours (Fredclarkeara After Dark 'SVO' FCC/AOS x Catasetum John C. Burchett 'Ursa Major' FCC/AOS) have FCC's, and 'Dark Thirty' has FCC quality flowers as well! Enter Light 'SVO Dark Beauty' FCC/AOS is the best of the best! Its shape, color, form, ease to bloom, fragrance and flower life are all superior. This and SVO 7226 are the second and third times a Fredclarkeara has been crossed to another Fredclarkeara! The opportunity for exceptional offspring is mind boggling.

 

Left Photo:  Fredclarkeara After Hours 'Dark Thirty'

Right Photo:  Fredclarkeara Enter Light 'SVO Dark Beauty' FCC/AOS

Description and photos courtesy Fred Clarke, Sunset Valley Orchids

 

Parentage

 

Fredclarkeara After Hours 'Dark Thirty'  x  Fredclarkeara Enter Light 'SVO Dark Beauty' FCC/AOS

 

Culture

 

Follow the guidelines outlined in the standard Catasetinae culture sheet keeping in mind that frequent observations of the actual orchid will be the best way to determine the orchid's progress and if any changes are required.

 

 

 

Brief Grow Blog and Pictures

 

 

 

February 2019

Acquired from Sunset Valley Orchids.  This three-year-old seedling has 2 bulbs. It is currently situated in a 3-inch pot in moss with styrofoam peanuts filling the bottom 1/3 of the pot surrounded by abundant roots.  Old roots do not contribute to the new growth.

 

As the orchid is still considered dormant and the last bulb is supplying nutrients and water for the new growth, nothing is required  except allowing to be exposed in indirect sunlight in a relatively humid environment.  On occasion, to prevent the last year's bulb from shrivelling, I will mist the orchid and that water will run down and add moisture to the area immediately surrounding the base of the bulb.  Keeping the entire orchid in a high humidity environment should also prevent last year's bulb from shrivelling.

 

I will be watching for the new growth to extend to about an inch in length and new roots from its base.  Once the roots are about 2 inches in length and the new growth has developed and spreading of tiny leaves, I will consider the next step of potting up in fresh slightly damp moss removing the old styrofoam.The moss will be kept barely damp with a small amount of water as needed.  The terrarium and its high humidity is no longer required as the new roots have started taking in water.  It will be positioned in the mini-greenhouse with bright light and high humidity along with warm temperatures during th day and cooling off at night. As the new growth increases in size, watering will also be increased along with the adding of fertilizer.

 

10 February

Based on advice from this article, I fought off the hesitation to do this, but Fred Clarke said it is fine in a dry climate to water dormant bulbs.  SO I did, and lucky to pick a partly coudy day where they were drenched and set in the mini-greenhouse to dry in the sun on the same day before sunset.  ( http://herebutnot.com/care-growing-catasetinae-dry-climates/ )

 

A few days after I removed the orchid from the pot to speed up the drying of the root mass.

 

When possible, I had it sitting in the mini-greenhouse getting a few hours of diluted sunlight.  The new growths continue to get taller, almost reaching a length of 1.5 inches.  This item may be re-potted beginning of March.

 

 

 

1 March 2019

This unregistered hybrid finished February with a new growth (barely visible in image left).  In the accompanying picture, it is shaded and almost barely peeking above the moss.     

 

 

April 2019  (Date of image is 20190401)

 

Re-potted into it's grow season pot.  Removed the styrofoam peanuts from the old root-ball but this year I left a majority of the previous roots undisturbed.  Arranged the old root mass to be nested in fresh damp moss using the old surface of moss as a guide to determine the position so that this year's new growth is centered as much as possible and level if not just above the level of new moss - some sinking / settling might occur and to prevent this the moss below the old root-mass is compressed.  One thing I wanted to avoid is sinking the bulb too low in the moss.

 

I carefully add a few drops of water from a turkey baster on the outer edge of the pot to keep the moss damp.  By the end of April I suspect the spikes be more obvious and the new growth be ready for watering with a diluted fertilizer.  Currently, this orchid is in the second row from the front getting ambient light until the afternoon, bright light in the afternoon with some more direct but diffused light mid-afternoon to sunset.

 

(Mental note:  remaining pictures for this grow blog will be situated with the growth in the same position so as to avoid confusion and attempt to be consistent.)

 


    

 

 

1 May 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

Comparing the April picture and the current May image, you can get an idea just how fast these grow.

I increased the watering amount and frequency and used a diluted fertilizer once a week.  As for watering,  I would drench the moss, almost drowning it, and then tilt the pot so excess water drain out to a leel below the drainage holes.  The moss woul then wick the water up to the top keeping everything evenly moist.

I had to adjust the shelves in 2 of the mini-greenhouses so that the Fredclarkera get optimum light.  This was expected.  Brighter light means better blooms.  I could tell there was sufficient light by a shadow from my hand.  Fredclarkera are heat tolerant, so if it was above 80-degrees, in the greenhouse it be warmer, but also more humid.  If it was above 90-degrees, I just keep the flaps open so the heated air could escape easily.

 

Note for next year - rotate more frequently the Fredclarkera so the new growth reaches up and not to the side.  Vertical Fredclarkeras take less space than horizontal Fredclarkeras.

 

 

 

1 June 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

Fredclarkeras are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir.  As of yet no spikes have formed. With this Fredclarkera, I am not sure if they form at the base of the new growth or under a leaf up the new growth or from the top of the growth.

Into June, watering was just about everyday and feeding was still once a week.

 

 

 

July 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.  Exposure (time of) direct light is on the increase as the solstice has passed and the sun slowly gets lower in the horizon.  This also means heat is on the increase in the mini-greenhouse as well.

 

Fredclarkeras are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir. 

 

With the advent of July, watering with very diluted fertilizer is just about every oher day and during any heatwave more as needed.

 

 

August 2019

Only thing missing is the spike, and I would like to see the bulb start to fatten up with retained water as well

 

 

 

Unregistered Hybrid

(Fdk. After Hours 'Dark Thirty'  x  Fdk. Enter Light 'SVO Dark Beauty' FCC/AOS)

 

  Flowering by Week 1 to 52
AVE. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
 
2019 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
2020 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

 

 

 
I possess this orchid new growth spotted leaflets and roots growth stage  spike  bloom  dormancy

 

 

SVO 7218       NEW  (no longer listed on web site, possibly sold out)

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