Welcome to my 2020 GROW BLOG for the


Fredclarkeara Noname Hybrid ( Fredclarkeara Turning Point 'San Clemente' x Catasetum expansum 'SVO Midori' AM/AOS )


The parent orchids above are linked to a general culture and additional information page for each individual orchid Click on the images below for a full-sized image in a new tab.


Let the fun in growing begin....



Brief Grow Blog and Pictures


Over the years we have made many Fredclarkeara (Fdk.) hybrids, and here's one that's been in the planning stages for quite some time. This cross is designed to produce deep emerald green flowers, very unusual for a Fredclarkeara! Turning Point ( Mormodia Lime Tiger x Catasetum expansum ) was just that, a turning point in deep green flower breeding.  How do you continue to improve?  Reintroduce the deep green color and large lip of Catasetum expansum 'SVO Midori' AM/AOS again, to strengthen flower color and flatten the lip of the offspring. Being a Fredclarkeara, plants will bloom in late fall, and flowers will have excellent durability. If you have ever desired deep emerald green flowers, here is your opportunity.  ( - Fred Clarke, Sunset Valley Orchids)



 5 February 2019

It is always nice to see new growth being robust and healthy, it is twice as nice seeing a possible second new growth just emerging.   I will have to give this one a closer look and possibly re-pot this weekend.






20 February 2020

Included in my transition from the 3' pot to the current pot I cleaned up some of the roots  on top and bottom of the root ball and positioned the new growth centered and just below the edge of the pot.


I would like to think that for the past 2 weeks, paying close attention to how this Fredclarkeara is positioned in my growing area with regards to the sun, it managed to straighten out a lil bit. Left bottom 3 pictures, you can see the roots as they start their search for tapping into a water source.


Watering will be delayed as long as possible so that the roots grow long searching for a source to tap and absorb.  The back bulb is in very good shape so shrivelling from water being transferred to the new growth might not be seen for a month or two.  If the back bulb starts to show signs of severe water depletion by shrivelling I will slowly start watering but not heavy watering, enough to moisten the moss and pellets but not establish a reservoir at the bottom.  The goal is still get the roots to lengthen as much as possible.


Sacramento is experiencing a very dry February with very few days that could be called "overcast".  Lack of rain means a lack of cloudy days so in my growing area this and all the other Catasetinaes have been getting plenty of exposure to sun.  Once the ambient temperature is above 55-degrees, the orchids get marched from my kitchen to the growing area.  As the sun sets, everybody is marched back to the kitchen where it is warm, warmer then the 40-degree over night temperatures.


In my portable, mini-greenhouse shelves, along with the orchids I add a few water traps that add humidity as the inside of the green house gets warm in the sun, guessing mid-80's even tho the outside temperature be about  mid 60's.


Catasetinaes that have new growth spreading young leaves are in the middle row, front row is for Catasetinaes that have started new growth but no leaf development.


I try to check the mini-greenhouses twice during the afternoon for "feel" temperature and any humidity.


The first half of March I will be out of town so the Catasetinaes will be staged in a spot they get some direct afternoon sun (unless overcast skies) and protection from the cold overnight temperatures.


My absence will be the ultimate solution to resist the temptation of watering before the Catasetinaes are ready for it.


At the end of February I will repeat the sequence of the photos to the left and publish upon my return along with photos after my return.  It be interesting to compare the results of growth in my absence.  The images left are half sized so use browser options to view full sized images.






23 March 2020

The only issue with this Fredclarkeara is the unintentional lean towards a light source is extreme and I am doing my best to correct and compensate this lean.  18 days of me being absent created a significant lean towards an open window whee only some direct light passed through and the orchid reacted by growing towas that light source.  Hopefully it is not to late to "rotate" the pot to correct this lean as much as possible.


This year's growth above the moss most likely has surpassed the minimum requirement for length to be met to start light watering to dampen the moss.  However, I want the new roots to grow as long as possible before they get stunted or react to finding a water source.  The decision to start the water process will be further contemplated at the beginning of April as I keep an eye on the condition of the back bulb.


In the meantime, I will continue to position the pot to reverse as much lean as possible.


Should watering be necessary I will focus some images on the bulb's condition.  Watering will be very light at first, just enough to dampen the moss but not collect in the pot's reservoir.  After about two weeks, then watering be much more substantial in volume as if it was June or July.




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April 2020





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May 2020







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