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Unregistered Hybrid

( Clowesia Rebecca Northen 'Grapefruit Pink' x Mormodes. hookeri 'Black Fuzz' )

 

The hybrid genus is a Mormodia (Mo.) which results from the crossing of Mormodes and Clowesia. Clowesia Rebecca Northen (Cl. Grace Dunn x Cl. rosea) is a famous and well recognized plant, it is easy to grow, has beautiful frilly pink flowers with a marvelous citrus fragrance, all produced on multiple pendent inflorescences. The Mormodes hookeri ‘Black Fuzz’ blooms with 2-3 upright spikes per bulb, carrying 12-15 flowers each in a beautiful dark burgundy petals and sepals with a nearly black fuzzy lips. Mormodes are dominant for color transfer to their offspring. This cross will flower late in year, producing cascading inflorescences with 12-16 flowers in shades of burgundy with darker lips. They will also have a very intoxicating fragrance during day light hours. Mature plants will be spectacular. New as of 11/28/2018  SVO Item 7304

 

Photo Right: Clowesia Rebecca Northen 'Grapefruit Pink'

 

Photo Left: Mormodes hookeri 'Black Fuzz'

 

Description and Photos courtesy Fred Clarke, Sunset Valley Orchids

   

 

This is a new Mormodia hybrid that has only become available as of the end of November 2018.  I can only go by the very promising description offered by Fred Clarke as to how this Mormodia will grow and if it should bloom this year, what the blooms may look like.

 

For information on the parents of this hybrid, follow the links below:

 

Clowesia Rebecca Northen

 

Mormodes hookeri

 

 

Brief Grow Blog and Pictures

 
 

February 2019

Acquired from Sunset Valley Orchids.  This two-year-old seedling has 2 back-bulbs. It is currently situated in a 3-inch pot in moss with styrofoam peanuts filling the bottom 1/3 of the pot surrounded by abundant roots.  Old roots do not contribute to the new growth.

 

As the orchid is still considered dormant and the last bulb is supplying nutrients and water for the new growth, nothing is required  except allowing to be exposed in indirect sunlight in a relatively humid environment.  On occasion, to prevent the last year's bulb from shriveling, I will mist the orchid and that water will run down and add moisture to the area immediately surrounding the base of the bulb.  Keeping the entire orchid in a high humidity environment should also preventi last year's bulb from shriveling.

 

I will be watching for the new growth to extend to about an inch in length and new roots from its base.  Once the roots are about 2 inches in length and the new growth has developed and spreading of tiny leaves, I will consider the next step of potting up in fresh slightly damp moss removing the old styrofoam.The moss will be kept barely damp with a small amount of water as needed.  The terrarium and its high humidity is no longer required as the new roots have started taking in water.  It will be positioned in the mini-greenhouse with bright light and high humidity along with warm temperatures during th day and cooling off at night. As the new growth increases in size, watering will also be increased along with the adding of fertilizer.

 

10 February

Based on advice from this article, I fought off the hesitation to do this, but Fred Clarke said it is fine in a dry climate to water dormant bulbs.  SO I did, and lucky to pick a partly coudy day where they were drenched and set in the mini-greenhouse to dry in the sun on the same day before sunset.  ( http://herebutnot.com/care-growing-catasetinae-dry-climates/ )

 

16 February

While carefully removing the loose scruff from the bulb, I was delighted to discover a small new growth.

 

 

1 March 2019

I like surprises, and one surprise I really like is an orchid with 2 nw growths on opposite sides of the old bulb.  In the image to the left at the "6:00 - position" is one of those new growths and it's twin is on the other side out of view.  Next time I will try for an image looking straight down.

 

 .

 

 

April 2019  (Date of image is 20190401)

 

Re-potted into it's grow season pot.  Removed the styrofoam peanuts from the old root-ball but this year I left a majority of the previous roots undisturbed.  Arranged the old root mass to be nested in fresh damp moss using the old surface of moss as a guide to determine the position so that this year's new growth is centered as much as possible and level if not just above the level of new moss - some sinking / settling might occur and to prevent this the moss below the old root-mass is compressed.  One thing I wanted to avoid is sinking the bulb too low in the moss.  This is a good example image as the old moss can be seen immediately surrounding the bulbs, nested in fresh new moss.

 

This Mormodia has a second growth on the opposite side (not in view) of the obvious new growth (pictured) on last year's bulb. 

 

I carefully add a few drops of water from a turkey baster on the outer edge of the pot to keep the moss damp.  By the end of April I suspect the spikes be more obvious and the new growth be ready for watering with a diluted fertilizer.  Currently, this orchid is in the second row from the front getting ambient light until the afternoon, bright light in the afternoon with some more direct but diffused light mid-afternoon to sunset.

 

(Mental note:  remaining pictures for this grow blog will be situated with the growth in the same position so as to avoid confusion and attempt to be consistent.)

 

 

 

May 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

Comparing the April picture and the current May image, you can get an idea just how fast these grow.

I increased the watering amount and frequency and used a diluted fertilizer once a week.  As for watering,  I would drench the moss, almost drowning it, and then tilt the pot so excess water drain out to a level below the drainage holes.  The moss would then wick the water up to the top keeping everything evenly moist.

I had to adjust the shelves in 2 of the mini-greenhouses so that the Mormodia get optimum light.  This was expected.  Brighter light means better blooms.  I could tell there was sufficient light by a shadow from my hand.  Mormodia are heat tolerant, so if it was above 80-degrees, in the greenhouse it be warmer, but also more humid.  If it was above 90-degrees, I just keep the flaps open so the heated air could escape easily.

 

 

 

 

June 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.

 

Mormodia are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir.

 

Into June, watering was just about everyday and feeding was still once a week.

 

 

 

July 2019

Care:  Moss in a semi-hydroponic, almost clear plastic food container.  Exposed to bright light, but not direct "cattleya" light.  All greenhouse items are placed in a water tray for extra humidity due to evaporation.  Exposure (time of) direct light is on the increase as the solstice has passed and the sun slowly gets lower in the horizon.  This also means heat is on the increase in the mini-greenhouse as well.

 

Mormodia are water hogs, so drowning from over-watering is difficult at best.  Starting back in late April, when the new growth was about 2 inches tall, I started watering to moisten the moss with a few squirts from a turkey baster near but not immediately surrounding the new growth.  Once the new growth reached 4 inches, I could only guess the roots were established (2-3 inches in length) and started absorbing water, so I would increase watering with a balanced but very diluted fertilizer.  In may, I slightly increased the fertilizer and watering as needed.  Because their is a reservoir of water at the bottom of the pot, I did not fertilize except for once a week, the rest of the waterings during that week would dilute the reservoir. 

 

With the advent of July, watering with very diluted fertilizer is just about every oher day and during any heatwave more as needed.

 

August 2019

 

 

I am beginning to really appreciate my pure dumb luck with "base and root" pictures.  Being able to feel gently with finger tips for any swelling near the base does not come close to matching what up close and 4-times magnification can reveal.  Just wished it revealed a spike in the two images below.  I will also never look at drenched compressed moss the same way either.  Next time I have some speghetti, I will need to try and not think of these pictures.   Still no spike - yet.  Click the two images below for a larger version in a new tab.

 

The image, below and to the right, looked like a swelling up from the roots under that protective covering on the new bulb.  I removed it in hopes of finding a spike but there was nothing to see.

 

 

 

September 2019

 

 

 

 

Fredclarkeara Beverly Danielson

( Clowesia Rebecca Northen 'Grapefruit Pink' x Mormodes. hookeri 'Black Fuzz' )

 

  Flowering by Week 1 to 52
AVE. 1 2 3 4 5 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
 
2019 1 2 3 4 5 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
2020 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

 

 

 
I possess this orchid new growth spotted leaflets and roots growth stage  spike  bloom  dormancy

  

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